Day 28: Last day in Croatia and a Day of Firsts

We’re packed up and walking by 6:30 am. We have to walk the highway for at least 10 more miles until we pass the village of Otok and start a pilgrimage route called Our Lady of Sinj. We pass lots of houses and snag a couple apples from a tree hanging over the road. People … Continue reading Day 28: Last day in Croatia and a Day of Firsts

Day 27 : Cetina River and Ivan the Medicine Man

I don’t sleep well and feel groggy and sluggish as we begin to walk. During the flat paved sections of road I close my eyes periodically for 10 to 20 seconds and try to micro-nap. Today it’s all road and mostly asphalt...ugh. We see the source of the Cetina River in the morning. It’s around … Continue reading Day 27 : Cetina River and Ivan the Medicine Man

Days 24 – 26: Up and Over Dinara, Croatia’s Tallest Peak

We leave Gračac in the late afternoon, stopping at a restaurant about 2 miles down the road for one last chance to fill our bellies. We have to walk the highway for a few miles and then we turn off onto dirt and gravel roads. We’re mostly following a bike route into Knin, a fairly … Continue reading Days 24 – 26: Up and Over Dinara, Croatia’s Tallest Peak

Day 23: Crnopac into Gračac

We’ve been on the trail for just over three weeks now. We have just about 100 miles left to hike in Croatia and then we enter Bosnia. We’re looking forward to entering another country. Croatia has been beautiful but the trails haven’t been the most ideal. I’ve read that almost all of the Via Dinarica … Continue reading Day 23: Crnopac into Gračac

Days 21 – 22: Paklenica National Park

We start the day with a climb to the top of Veliki Stolac, the mountain just behind the hut. It’s another amazing view of the sea and the surrounding peaks. We follow the Velebit Hiking Trail the rest of the day. It’s pretty well marked but still a bit overgrown in parts. Around lunch time … Continue reading Days 21 – 22: Paklenica National Park

Day 20: Velebit National Park to Sugarska Hut

Unfortunately another night with no sleep. There are some serious snorers in the hut and it’s too hot in there and my legs are so itchy from another run-in with nettles the previous day. We head out early after a quick cold porridge for breakfast—we usually cold-soak oats and chia seeds overnight for breakfast in … Continue reading Day 20: Velebit National Park to Sugarska Hut

Days 16 – 19: From Senj into Velebit National Park

After 3 days off in Senj—eating great food, watching dumb movies at our apartment because they’re the only thing not in Croatian, swimming in the sea, and watching the World Cup finals with the locals—we are rested and ready to hike again. We take a bus from Senj back up to the mountain pass Vratnik … Continue reading Days 16 – 19: From Senj into Velebit National Park

Days 12 – 15: Fuzine to Senj…”a medal or a jail sentence”

We road walk into Fuzine which turns out to be a cute little tourist town with a decent market and a cafe where we’re able to get a coffee and use the WiFi and power outlets. We stay for a few hours and then head back to the trail. On our way out of town … Continue reading Days 12 – 15: Fuzine to Senj…”a medal or a jail sentence”

Gorski Kotar is my nemesis

Let me start by saying that I now scream “Gorski!!!” when I get really pissed off and frustrated with the trail. Unfortunately this happens often here in northern Croatia. Here’s a little background on Gorski Kotar... Gorski Kotar is a region in northern Croatia known as the “green heart of Croatia.” It’s absolutely beautiful and … Continue reading Gorski Kotar is my nemesis

Days 10 – 12: Into Risnjak National Park and our first trail magic!

We leave Trsce early, successfully avoiding any David encounters. We hike up partial trail/partial forest roads to a church called Sveta Gora. I’d been messaging with a fellow Via Dinarica thru hiker who is a few weeks ahead and he advised to skip the trail leading away from the church as it is overgrown and … Continue reading Days 10 – 12: Into Risnjak National Park and our first trail magic!